Cam Loc fitting vs. Bayonet. What’s the difference?
Cam Loc fitting vs. Bayonet. What’s the difference?
Ron J. asked us about Cleaning the Valve
I have removed the valve and soaked it in Sensor Power for a week. The valve operation is still stiff. It does not look like the valve can be disassembled. Is there something else I can do to clean it? Is there a lubricant I can use on it?
Dumper Dan Answers:
Try using silicone spray. With the gate open, spray it on both sides of the gate, to the point where it is dripping out, then cycle it and spray some more. If that doesn’t work something must be caught in the gears. The valve itself cannot be disassembled. Let me know if I can be of further assistance. 877 787 8833 X 12.
Tim has two great questions for Dumper Dan
#1 Which fuses are recommended?
I am just about ready to replace my old valves with my new valves. I noticed that New Horizons put two 10 amp fuses in for the valves. Would it be advisable for me to replace them with 5 amp fuses as stated in your literature? (I assume the answer is yes, but since New Horizons put in the 10 amp fuses, I just thought I would double check with you guys.)
Dumper Dan Answers:
Good morning Tim,
The right fuse to use is indeed 5 amp. We have on occasion had valves that require more power and blow the 5 amp fuse, we think it is a slight variation in the motor windings. If this happened to you, simply replace the fuse with a 7.5 amp fuse. I think 10 will allow the wire to heat up before the fuse gives in, and that would not be good.
Tim’s 2nd Question:
I’m going to be installing my new valves this week and I just found out it will be impossible to move the valves from the 3 o’clock position to any other position. So, I was wondering if I should add to my annual maintenance schedule, a cleaning and maintenance procedure, whereby I would tip our 5th wheel toward the valves, put in your valve cleaner and some water, and let it sit for a few hours. Maybe even repeatedly opening and closing the valves just for good measure. Obviously, the tanks would have to be emptied before performing the task. Do you have any comments regarding this idea? Or, would it be a useless endeavor? I just want clean valves! And the installation arrangement I have, just does not provide any way to move the valves from the 3 o’clock position. Take Care,
Dumper Dan Answers:
In a situation like yours, I would listen to the valves when they open and close during the season you are using the RV. If they begin to sound sluggish, say at the middle of the second year, I would put it on your list to remove the valves, clean them as directed here http://drainmaster.com/documents/DM26-5%20CleaningMaintProDM.pdf re-grease the gate with Dow 111 and reinstall them.
The key, Tim, is not to have backpressure on the valves, which happens when you first open the valve. The water fights the air in the plumbing, trying to push it down the sewer. Once this happens the water goes to full flow. It’s when the back pressure is there, that water can get into the gate body area. It doesn’t flood it, but one drop at a time and the water is contaminated which eventually causes the sluggish behavior. I have customers that tell me it took 5 years for the valves to sound differently, others a year, so it is difficult to say a specific schedule should be adhered to.
What you are proposing would certainly insure your tanks are clean but I doubt it would do much for the valve. As always we are here to assist, so please feel free to contact us any time. You may also find some interesting information on our blog http://www.drainmaster.com/blog
No, in fact you shouldn’t use any other brand of seals, no matter which type of RV gate valve you have. All valve seals the RV industry are made specifically for the valves they are sold with. The Drain Master seals are special in that they are impregnated with graphite which lubricates the gate as it slides back and forth while opening and closing.
Need seals for your Drain Master valve? Click here for part #5212 at the bottom of the page.
Well first let’s look at the way this fitting creates a seal. There is a rubber seal inside your bayonet fitting. To hook up your sewer hose you must twist against that seal which can cause the seal itself to crimp. And we all know that a crimped seal will cause leaks.
Now let’s take a minute and consider what’s passing through that hose. I don’t know anyone that wants sewage dripping anywhere near them. The correct type of fitting for a job like this is a compression fitting. A compression fitting allows the seal to have pressure applied to it evenly, eliminating the possibility of crimping. If you’ve ever seen an 18 wheeler off loading fuel at a gas station, then you’ve seen a compression or Cam Loc fitting. Now doesn’t it make sense to use the same type of fitting when you’re emptying sewage from your holding tank? In fact, when we were developing this product, we couldn’t find any other industry that uses the bayonet fitting. So why do most RV’s come standard with a bayonet fitting at the sewer outlet? Well, it comes down to cost. A bayonet fitting is quite a bit cheaper than a cam loc fitting, so over time it just became the standard, and up until now folks like yourself, just accepted it as one of the irritating things about the RVing lifestyle.
We all know that we keep the black water tank closed and dump it when it is about 2/3 full. But the grey water tank fills up so quickly from the sinks and shower that it seems like a good idea to leave it open to drain. Well the first reason is that once you have drained the black water tank, you need your grey tank full in order to flush out the sewer hose.
But there are two more reasons you’ll want to keep the grey tank closed. Most sewer systems in RV parks consist of piping coming from each RV space and continuing along to either the septic tank or sewer outlet for the park. Also there will be, depending on the design, a few vent pipes which will rise out of the ground and stand about 10 feet in the air. The purpose of these is to vent the air that is displaced when someone at a site dumps their holding tanks. The air in the lines is being pushed along seeking the path of least resistance to vent. So if you keep your grey tank open and you are situated next or near to someone dumping their tanks, the air that is displaced by the water heads for the nearest opening. Your coach becomes an additional vent! If your grey tank is closed, you are not creating an opening for odors!
The last but not least reason for keeping your Grey tank closed is that creatures live in sewer lines. That’s right critters, bugs, worms etc. and they can find their way up your sewer hose highway into your Grey tank. With the tank 2/3 full even if they are in the hose, they will be flushed back down the drain—where they belong!
Alfa Motorized Dump Valve Repositioning Procedure
This document was written by Drain Master and edited by Central Valley RV.
When Alfa Leisure began using the Drain Master electric dump valves they installed them in the wrong position according our Installation Instructions and continued to do so despite our factory audits insisting they mount the valves over the piping and not to the side or down. This resulted in earlier than expected valve failure due to waste and liquid entering the valve body and remaining there.
This document was created to help Alfa owners reposition the valves at minimum expense.
1. Flush and empty both holding tanks.
2. Remove both black and gray drain valves and piping attached to (Clean existing valves (see attached procedure) and the other existing fitting manifold.
3. Flush out the holding tank flanges, wipe the compartment out then turn off all 12vdc and 115 vac to the coach.
4. The poly compartment needs to be cut so the valves will fit in the 12 o’clock high position. Be very careful doing this because you will be very close to the Grey and Black tanks. Puncturing a tank will not be fun and a very expensive repair. You only need to cut away enough to have the body of the valve have an inch of clearance. Note; There may be wires laying on the top of the compartment so check to be sure you do not nick them when cutting the hole.
5. Dry fit the valves on the existing flanges making sure you have about a half inch of clearance around the valve.
6. Reassemble by lubricating the seals with Dow 111 grease then place 2 seals, one on the Black flange and one on the Grey Flange. Apply the other two seals on the manifold flanges.
7. Insert the 8 bolts from the back of the tank flanges and hold in place using duck tape or putty.
8. Install both valves in the proper 12 o’clock high position then install the existing manifold. Add nuts and hand tighten. Tighten the nuts no more than 1.5 turns.
9. Reconnect the wiring fill the tanks and test of leaks. Keep in mind that the valves need only tightened to 20 inch pounds of torque. If the valves do not work is it most likely do to over tightening of the bolts or piping miss aligned, causing the valves to bind up also be careful not to install the flanges with excess amount of glue which could end up with the gate glued shut.
When you study the top (first) photo you will notice that solid waste is present in the Grey tank, in fact a lot more than in the Black tank opening. How can this be? This customer has been back filling his Grey water into the Black tank. If he has done this to extend his stay by transferring liquid this is the result! If he was doing it to flush the Black water with Grey water it didn’t work! The manual valve was added as a safety measure for you by Alfa to insure that when you took the cap off to connect the sewer hose you would not get a surprise because a grandson was playing with switches earlier in the day. It was not put there for back filling purposes! Need help with proper dumping procedures; call our toll free number 877 787 8833.
Follow this link to get further information on our
I have 2003 alpha with the electric drain valves … A year ago the grey water valve stuck. I mangaged to get it open and use the main valve mechanically. Now the Black drain is sticking. Is there anything that can be done about this to fix the valves. Kevin
You can do a cleaning procedure found here. You may also want to read this. If your valves are not in the correct position (over the piping) you will need to do the cleaning procedure when the valve becomes sluggish. You may want to consider replacing the valves with our latest version as described here.
My waste valve on the Galley tank will not open. I have checked the switch and it is good, as it will open the black tank valve. I just hear a clicking sound. It is stuck closed. The other 2 valves work fine so it is not a power issue. My under belly is totally inclosed, so gettting at the valve is a major undertaking. Any ideas on how to get it open? Thank you, Paul
Unfortunatly the only way to open the valve is to use the manual override on the actual valve itself. If you are hearing it click you could rock the switch from open to closed a number of times and see if that lets it loose.
We would like to know if you sell the Drain Master valves in Canada. If so, where ? Thanks, Norman
Good morning Norman,
We sell the valves direct from our web site or by phone. We ship to Canada about 4 times a week average so no problem.
Why are we not offering the Sewer Master or the Sewer Supreme hoses?
The reason is, we have engineered a true RV sewer hose and it is called Polychute. This new hose will in all probability be the LAST sewer hose you will ever need to buy. We set out to design a sewer hose that would eliminate all of the issues associated with RV industry standard sewer hoses. This took more than 2 years to accomplish as hose manufacturers want to sell what they have, which is NOT what we, as RVers, wanted.
The Polychute is made of a special blend of Polyethylene TPE material with UV inhibitors and flame retardant additives. It has no metal wire in it and the spiral is on the outside, so it acts as a wear strip. The inside of the hose is very smooth and because there is no metal wire in it the hose is crush proof. In addition the hose has a 3 to 1 compression ratio and is spring loaded so it wants to be in its collapsed state making it very easy to handle.
The hose comes in a couple of different options to meet your specific needs. If your coach sewer outlet fitting is a male Cam Loc fitting or threaded fitting The Waste Master version can be customized to your specifications if needed.
If you have the common industry bayonet fitting, see our Polychute version. The Polychute version is 16’ long extended and approximately 5’ in its relaxed position. The Polychute comes in its own convenient storage case which eliminates odors and all versions come with our patented nozzle swivel on the end.
We believe Polychute will not only exceed your expectations, but it will soon become the sewer hose that everyone owns.
We encourage you to share your comments and questions. Click on the post title and you will be able to submit your comment.
The days of bending over, getting on your hands and knees and pulling on a handle to dump your holding tanks is now a thing of the past. Switches can be mounted where it is easy to get to, no more reaching under the slide out, bumping your head. Mount an extra switch inside where you want it. Proudly made in the USA.
From a recent customer:
We replaced our failed Sani Con dump system with your Waste Master product about three months ago and are 1000% satisfied with both the performance and the quality of the materials used.
It’s nice NOT to have the factory-installed hoses leak anymore (the pump dripped since new) and being able to thoroughly empty the tanks in a few seconds--compared to about five minutes with the old one. The pump is a real joy--faster and it really IS cleaner.
The best part is finally getting rid of a very slight sewage odor that persisted since the first day we took our coach out, despite my meticulous tank maintenance program and use of chemicals, now the only thing the dw (Dear Wife) comments on when coming out of the bathroom is how nice the hand soap smells !!!!!!!!!
Thank you for all you help and technical assistance.
Betsy & Tom
Historically the products used to transfer the waste from the RV to a ground inlet have been designed and built to cost. This approach has resulted in making dumping the least desirable task related to RVing. Waste Master and Polychute has changed this by providing products designed and built to do the job without making a mess on the ground. Our systems have smooth walls inside, so waste is not caught between the spirals like standard waste evacuation systems--a cleaner flush leaves less smell.