Sep222010

Happy Customers…..

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Braging Rights…

We are going to take a few minutes of your time do some bragging via our customers

    #1

My experience with” Drain MASTER ” has been nothing but positive. I installed the valve this past weekend. The instructions were easy to follow and it went smoothly. It sure works nicely. I”m using an L.E.D. with a 1k resistor so the magnetic switch won”t have any trouble handling the load.
Dennis G..

    #2

The greatest thing since sliced bread! No more getting on your knee to open those waste valves, simply push the button and its done. Your trips to the dump station are clean and simple with Drain Master!!
Nick

    #3

Since putting Drain Master in stock, we’ve experienced great response. We chose Drain Master over other brands because we felt that their design was far superior to the other brands. Also, the service we’ve received has been outstanding!!
Brett

Thank you for letting us brag… we do have customers who have issues at times, but 99% of the time we are able to turn it around with our experts giving them the right answers and working with them to get them back on the road of RVing.

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Sep132010

Is There a Gap in Your Gate?

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People often ask if the valve will leak because there is a space on two sides of the gate. To fully understand how the valve sealing works, put the seals in the valve, and the holes will disappear. The sealing surface is between the lips on the seals and the gate surface. The area outside the sealing surface is not relevant to its ability to seal. Remember, simply put the seals in the valve, and the holes will disappear.

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Sep012010

Plugged Holding Tank?

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During the RV manufacturing process all kinds of things get into the holding tanks: dirt, sawdust, plastic plugs (shown here),

Plastic piece found in holding tank

electrical wire pieces, screws, bolts, staples etc. These items should be blown out of the tanks prior to water testing, as some of them can stick to the bottom of the holding tank.

This particular piece, came from a hole saw falling into the tank during tank assembly. Unfortunately this plug made the tank, drain very slowly. It was found in a 3” elbow after the Drain Master valve. This same plug can get caught in the tank outlet before the valve and the result, is the RV owner thinking the valve is not working because the holding tank is full and will not drain.

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Aug262010

Premium Valve vs Standard (video)

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Drain Master LLC, Innovation through actual RV’ing experience

We are excited about our new HOW -TO videos. This week we are featuring the DRAIN MASTER and the difference between the Premium Drain Master and the Standard Drain Master.

Check it out here: PremiumVsStandard

You can look forward to our next video in two weeks…..__>

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Aug162010

Ground Contamination

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It has been discussed for over 40 years, the issue of dripping contamination on the ground, when you empty your gray or black water from your RV.

One cause could be not having enough hose to reach from where you have your RV parked, in relationship to the sewer inlet.

So, do you need an extension to the hose? How about having caps at the ends, so when you disconnect, if the waste is not completely rinsed clean, it will flow back into the hose, not the ground.

We would like to hear your comments on this subject.

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Jul262010

Troubleshooting procedures for Drain Master Valves

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The Valve Itself

The first thing most people think when their Drain Master valve doesn’t work as it always does,  is to blame the valve itself.  In our experience 95 +  percent of the time it is not the valve!

The most effective method to trouble shoot any valve issue, is to disconnect the valve wiring from the rest of the wiring. This is done by disconnecting the 4 pin Mate N Loc electrical plug located about 8” away from the back of the valve.

The 2 outer pins are the motor wires, a Red and a White wire, they come directly out of the back of the valve itself.

Using a 12vdc battery or battery charger set on 12vdc, put the White wire on the Positive terminal and the Red wire on the Negative terminal.

The valve should OPEN in about 1 second!

Now reverse the wires by putting the Red wire on the Positive terminal and the White wire on the Negative. The valve should close.

If this works do it a few times just to make sure. The problem is in the wiring , the switch,  the 12vdc power source, or maybe a blown fuse.

In the event the valve does not OPEN or CLOSE with the above procedure chances are good the valve has failed and needs to be replaced. If the valve works but is very sluggish (opens and closes but very slowly) the valve may need to be removed and cleaned. See Cleaning Procedure.

The LED Light

The LED light, if your valve is equipped with it, it located either on the right side of the small operator switch or it is integrated in the top (open) part of the switch paddle.  The LED indicates when the valve is no longer full closed and it will remain on until the operator closes the valve.

The way this works is that there is a small micro switch located on the back of the valve itself.

On the inside of the valve,  a magnet is glued to the slide gate. When the valve is closed, the magnet lines up under the switch, and the light goes out. The micro switch itself is a NC or Normally Closed style and the magnet holds the contacts apart. When the magnet leaves its position under the micro switch the contacts close and the light goes on. It will remain ON until the magnet returns to its home plave under the micro switch.

Light will not go out

Take a household or shop magnet and place it over the micro switch, the light should go out. If it does the circuit is working fine, the gate is not closing all the way, lining up the magnet glued to the gate. Remove valve and check for debris stuck in the gate area preventing the gate from completely closing. Clean valve and re install. Click here to see the Cleaning Procedure.

Light does not come on

To check this begin by disconnecting the 4 pin electrical plug and place a jumper wire between the 2 center pins on the plug half, going to the operator switch. The light should come on and off when  the jumper is removed. If nothing happens the operator switch may need replacing.

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Jul082010

RV Dump Valve Positioning

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Why is the position on a manual RV gate (dump) valve important? And who cares? As a matter of fact,  all RV consumers should be aware of a design flaw in all industry standard RV gate valves.

Simply inspect any manual or electric RV gate valve with the gate open   Notice the slight gap between the 2 seals. This gap allows contaminated water and debris to get into the body of the valve where the gate slides back and forth (like a sliding glass door in your house).  Worse, many,  if not all standard RV gate valves are installed SIDEWAYS which allows paper, sand, and other debris to REMAIN in the housing and not properly drain out.

Manual Waste Valve

Manual Waste Valve

Eventually the valve becomes sluggish from the dirt, sand, or even paper-mache-like build-up, and simply stops working.  The valve then needs to be removed and cleaned, or replaced.

The Drain Master solution is to mount a Drain Master valve vertically over the top of the piping so the gate goes up and down like an overhead door.  Any water getting into the body then drains back out as the tank empties.

We explain this to all RV manufacturers as our standard policy.

Correct Installation of Drain Master Electric Waste Valve

Correct Installation of Drain Master Electric Waste Valve

Close up of correct waste valve installation

Close up of correct waste valve installation

Simple solution to a nasty problem.

Dumper Dan

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Jul022010

RV Holding Tank Chemicals – Learn for yourself

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Did you ever wonder about the chemistry of the currently available holding tank treatments?

Here is some information for you to ponder over…..

What we RVers put into the holding tank in solid form (yes, human waste) contains friendly bacteria known as coli forms. This is the same bacteria that digests the food we eat and is necessary to breakdown the solid waste in the holding tanks.

The black holding tank in RVs can be thought of as a small septic tank where the breakdown process begins and here, the proper use of chemicals is important. Using improper chemicals can kill the beneficial bacteria and cause improper waste breakdown that leads to odors. Makes sense!

A septic tank system consists of two major parts: a tank and a drain field or leach field. The septic tank or holding tank allows the solids to settle to the bottom. This settling process gives the bacteria time to break down and liquefy the waste. During the breakdown process in the holding tanks, it is important to keep the bacteria supplied with oxygen (in an aerobic condition) so the bacteria can liquefy the waste without producing the odor nobody likes.

This gas, hydrogen sulfide, is corrosive to both steel and cement which is the reason waste treatment plants will aerate the sludge or add oxygen-releasing chemicals to the sludge to keep the bacteria working properly. So . . . it is important to use a product that supplies oxygen to the bacteria and not use a harsh chemical that will kill the bacteria. Still make sense!?

Waste treatment plants monitor the oxygen content and the goal is to maintain the oxygen content between three and five parts per million. Above five parts per million, the bacteria begin to die and below three parts per million there is not enough oxygen and the bacterium goes into an anaerobic (without oxygen) condition. This anaerobic condition produces the odor nobody likes to smell.

The use of harsh chemicals that kill the bacteria will slow or stop the liquefying process in dump station systems and lead to costly repairs or replacement of the system. Also malfunctioning systems can contaminate underground water sources, surface water sources or even the soil.

There are many products on the market for use in holding tanks – but you do have to be careful and do your research. Here is a brief overview of what you will see in some of the products available:

  • Enzymes – The labels on these products usually are not specific about the active ingredients. The word “enzyme” is usually associated with compounds that are needed for a chemical reaction to occur. The function of supplying oxygen to the friendly bacteria is difficult to determine. Most products carrying enzymes to not specify the type or what kind of enzymes the consumer is buying.
  • Nitrates – Nitrates are useful to the RV holding tank because the chemical compound breaks down to release oxygen to the friendly bacteria resulting in an aerobic condition as the bacteria process the sewage.
  • Formaldehyde – This most widely used chemical is mixed with methyl alcohol and is marketed as a blue-colored, perfumed liquid. The EPA states “formaldehyde kills or retards bacterial growth; is recognized as a probable cancer-causing agent and is moderately toxic to humans. It does not supply oxygen to keep the bacteria in an aerobic condition.
  • Benzaldehyde – The label on this package states it is formaldehyde-free. Here is a deception in marketing – sure, it does not contact formaldehyde, it contains benzaldehyde, which is in the same chemical family as formaldehyde. Most chemicals in the same chemical family act the same way.
  • Paraformaldehyde – EPA states this is a variation of formaldehyde. When heated, paraformaldehyde releases formaldehyde. According to the EPA, it is also a bacterial pesticide and very toxic to humans.
  • Glutaraldehyde – This chemical is better known as embalming fluid. For many years, it was used as gray water treatment product. In 2003 or so, the gray water treatment package was redesigned and the glutaraldehyde was removed. The label now states the product contains surfactants. Surfactants are chemicals that make water “wetter”. Surfactants reduce surface tension; the water loses its suction, and falls off the surface walls. These products are usually lemon-scented.
  • Bronopol – The EPA states that Bronopol is a bacteria pesticide (kills bacteria). It also states that Bronopol breaks down into formaldehyde. It is a common ingredient in products marketed in tablets and green liquids.
    These products are labeled as formaldehyde-free which is correct, however, what is little known to the average RVer or campground owner is that in the presence of sewage, bronopol breaks down into formaldehyde. This information should be included on the label so the environmentally conscious RV consumer can make an informed choice in the use of chemicals.
  • Dowicil – The EPA states this chemical is a bacterial pesticide (A bacterial pesticide kills bacteria). EPA states “Do not discharge effluent containing this product to sewer systems withouth previously notifying the local sewer treatment plant authority.”
  • Ammonium Compounds – These are bacterial pesticides that kill bacteria. They are often found in sprays for surface bacteria. This chemical and most of the chemicals discussed in this article do not provide a source of oxygen to the friendly bacteria to conform to normally practiced and recognized sewage treatment methods.

WHY SHOULD RVers BE CONCERNED WITH WHAT PRODUCTS THEY USE? – As RVers we must be concerned about the chemicals we use in our holding tanks. Most of the products are harsh chemicals designated by the EPA as bacterial pesticides that either kill or slow down the growth of the bacteria. Unpleasant odors are still present so perfumes or deodorizers are added to these products to hide the smell making these products nothing more than glorified tank deodorants.

Of concern to us RVers is the closing of dumpsites. Every year another state or city will close their usually “free” dumpsite because of overuse of these “harsh chemicals”. Local tax dollars are used to put the system back in use and with government bodies being squeezed by higher demands from voters and resistance to tax increases, these “free” privileges for us may very well vanish in the future. So it is to the benefit of all RVer’s to become familiar with the sewage treatment process and chemicals they buy. It may take a little effort to remember the chemical names but the effort is worth it.

What do we recommend?  Pure Power Waste Digester will do all of this for your holding tank to keep it clean, free flowing and smelling good.

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Jun242010

RV Waste Systems—did you know?

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The subject of waste removal from an RV is always a subject that stirs an emotional response. Most serious RVers, as well as, newbies have had an unpleasant experience while dumping waste from their RVs.
More patents have been issued for “better ideas” related to dumping holding tanks than any other area of RVing. Why would that be? I began looking into this and found some surprising answers.
The minimum standard by which RV manufacturers are governed is the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Standard on Recreational Vehicles. It is the industry bible, if you belong to the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA). In reading the section on holding tanks and associated waste removal items covering direction of flow, pipe sizing, and venting, I found Section 7.5.7 Drain Outlets. Interestingly enough, the standard stops at the termination cap!
Have you ever wondered why there are so many choices at an RV accessory store relative to transferring waste from the RV to an approved sewer inlet? The reason is that RV manufacturers are not responsible “after the cap”.
Quick to observe this gap, a few accessory manufacturers began to design interface products and sell them to aftermarket stores. Until recently, RV manufacturers did not supply any method for the consumer to transfer waste from the RV to an approved sewer inlet. On the rare occasion when they did, the sewer hose and fittings would be the most cost effective they could find and mostly not fit to use, for the intended purpose.

Under the NFPA 1192 Standard, the RV manufacturers have to supply the RV with an approved electrical power cord and plug, Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved. If they supply a fresh water hose, it must be approved for use with potable water approved by National Standards Foundation (NSF).
Surprisingly, no testing or listing standard exists for the safe and sanitary transfer of human waste from an RV to an approved sewer inlet. None of the fittings or hoses you buy are tested or listed to any standard at all. No wonder they are “Exclusive” to the RV industry aftermarket. No other type of business uses these fittings and hoses, yet we as the consumer, must use these products to remove the human waste from our RVs which carry diseases harmful to our health. When a fitting drips, or the hose leaks during the dumping process, an unsanitary condition at the site is created. Having to clean the inside of the sewer hose after dumping, creates a mess at the RV site. The next occupant has to deal with flies, mosquitoes and even rodents, all of which carry disease and viruses harmful to humans.

Whenever I discover a problem, I make it a practice to find a workable solution, prior to telling others about the issue. Don’t you dislike the person that finds fault with something and does not have a method to resolve it?

The solution in my opinion is simple:
1. Have the sewer hose connected to the RV at all times after the termination valves, using a threaded fitting to insure the interface from solid pipe to flexible hose is secure. This must be done at the RV manufacturer level. In lieu of this approach, we designed the Polychute system which uses the male bayonet pins and our compression Polylock fitting to the coach, minimizes any drainage issues. Having a proper compression fitting to connect the hose to the coach is a viable alternate.
In addition, using a “First In”, “Last Out” method of dumping insures no mess is left on the ground. Install the sewer inlet “First” and remove it “Last”.
2. Use a sewer transfer hose that is built to a testing specification, to insure the hose can stand up to the environment in which it will be subjected to.
3. The sewer inlet fitting must fit securely in the ground inlet and have a shut off valve, to isolate the end user from the liquid inside the hose. With a shut off valve on the business end of the hose, the environment will not be soiled and the hose will not need to be cleaned prior to storage.

Interestingly all other industries that transport liquids of any kind take full responsibility for the transfer process, only the RV industry does not.
The challenge it seems, is a good solution or a cost effective solution but how do we get the RV manufacturers to adopt this as a standard feature?

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Jun102010

The Proper (and Safest) Way to Empty Holding Tanks for your RV

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I’m always being asked a common RV problem about the proper way to dump RV waste (also known as emptying  holding tanks).


First, the Ugly Common Way.

To effectively answer this question we must look at what our collective goal is.

Transferring the holding tank waste from the RV in a sanitary way while not making a mess on the ground seems to be a worthy goal. We might also add that we want to do this in an uneventful way.

Generally, the most common method folks use today is to remove their sewer hose system from their coach, connect the coach end to the RV and then walk to the ground sewer inlet, place the fitting in the sewer and dump the black water first, then the gray water. They then perform the SAME procedure (starting at the coach) and as they put the sewer system back into its storage location they bleed the water out of the hose so as to not smell up the storage area.

Unfortunately, that method is both unsanitary and obviously contaminates the ground around the RV site.

Yuck.


Now the Proper and Safe Way.

Here’s your NEW step-by-step method to ensure a simple, safe and sanitary results:

  1. Begin by putting the ground sewer inlet fitting in the sewer first. There should be an on/off valve in the fitting (if not, it should have a cap).
  2. When the fitting is secure in the sewer inlet, open the valve (or remove the cap before securing the fitting)
  3. Then walk the other end back to the RV. This coach connection should have a cap as well so remove it and connect the fitting to the RV.
  4. Dump the black water first, then secondly the gray water.  When flushing the holding tanks be sure to use tank sprayers only.
  5. When done,  remove the RV connection and replace the cap.
  6. Now, holding the cap, walk the hose back to the sewer inlet which bleeds the hose.  Close the valve, or,  lift the fitting (carefully as to not spill), and put the cap on it. Remove the valve fitting from the sewer inlet.  Replace the ground sewer cap if it has one. Store the sealed hose.

You now have not made any kind of a mess on the ground or yourself and may firmly congratulate yourself for being  environmentally responsible and friendly–and completely sanitary.

To help you make this job COMPLETELY uneventful. you must use quality products designed and guaranteed to do this over a long period of time. Check them out here.

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